In May this year, I stayed at Noka Camp, part of Lepogo Lodges in the Lapalala Wilderness Reserve. My stay here was short, just two nights, but it gave me a real taste of the region, and the camp itself truly wowed me.
While just three and a half hours of Johannesburg International Airport, Noka Camp is nestled deep in the heart of South Africa’s Waterberg region. The drive itself feels like the start of the adventure, gradually leaving the bustle of the city behind as the landscape shifts into rolling hills and wide-open bushveld. On arrival at the reserve gates, you’re greeted by the hotel staff with a cold drink, dried mango and some biltong, the perfect South African welcome, before moving from the airport transfer to the game drive vehicle for the final 15 minutes of the journey into the bush. Alternatively, private airstrips make it possible to fly directly into the reserve for a quicker arrival.
The Lapalala Wilderness Reserve is huge, covering around 50,000 hectares of bushveld. The landscape surprised me as it is dramatic and diverse, with rocky ridges, river valleys and open plains dotted with acacia trees. I’d only been to Kruger previously in South Africa, so I really appreciated this different landscape. It’s home to the “Big Five” and a wide range of other wildlife, as well as over 300 bird species. So, by being outside of the better-known Kruger and Sabi Sands reserves, you certainly aren’t cutting back on your wildlife experience.
The Palala River runs through the reserve. The river not only sustains wildlife and creates some of the most scenic spots for exploring, it provides the perfect spot to perch Noka Camp, which perches dramatically on the cliffs above, overlooking the water. The views are definitely the initial wow factor as you arrive.
After being greeted by traditional singing and drumming, as well as a welcome cocktail, I was shown around the camp. I was fascinated to learn at this point that only a tiny percentage of the camp actually touches the ground. If it were ever removed, the land would return almost entirely to its natural state, leaving virtually no trace. That level of care for the environment became a theme that ran throughout the rest of my stay at Lepogo Lodges.
It’s worth pointing out at this point that while Noka Camp is a camp, it doesn’t feel like one in the traditional sense. It’s done to the highest possible standard, and is truly luxurious, while keeping a true sense of place in the bushveld surrounded by wildlife and adventure.
The suites themselves are nothing short of spectacular. There are just five villas accommodating a maximum of twelve guests, each spaced out and connected to the main camp by a raised wooden walkway, so you feel totally secluded. I stayed in a family suite, which had two near-identical ensuite bedrooms on either side of a living/dining area opening up onto a lark deck with a plunge pool. Each room had sweeping floor-to-ceiling windows that made it feel like the bush was part of the room itself. The space was beautiful and spacious, but also very cosy and welcoming, with a welcome note and a stocked fridge/minibar.
One of the things that stood out most during my stay was the attention to detail and hospitality. The staff, from the lodge manager to the cooks, guides, and spotters, all knew me by name. In turn, I quickly started to know theirs, which gave the camp a family-like feel. They remembered our drink preferences, listened to every request, and generally made sure our stay was as comfortable as it could be.
Not long after our arrival, I set out on my first game drive. Because it’s a private reserve, the safari experience is far more exclusive. In fact, over the entire stay, we only saw another vehicle once or twice, which was the other guests at Noka Camp. For the rest of the time, it felt like we had the wilderness all to ourselves.
Despite recent heavy rains (the amount of which was very unusual for the area), which closed off some of the tracks, we still had incredible sightings: rhino, elephant, zebra, giraffe, and lots more. The highlight was coming across two cheetah brothers, stretched out and snoozing in the grass, completely unbothered by our presence.
I also took a morning river cruise on the Palala. The water levels from the recent flooding were too high to see the usual hippos and crocodiles who were hiding further back amongst the trees, but it was a stunning way to spend a morning. I sat with hot coffee with a splash of Amarula, nibbling on rusk, spotting many birds and observing the nature around.
One of the highlights of Lapalala to me is the Pangolin Research and Rehabilitation Centre, also known as the Pangolarium. This is where rescued pangolins, often victims of poaching, are rehabilitated before being reintroduced to the wild. In fact, the Netflix series Pangolin: Kulu’s Journey was filmed here. I hadn’t seen it before my trip, but I watched it on the flight home, and it gave me an even deeper appreciation for the work being done. Pangolins have now firmly earned a spot in my top three animals, alongside my lifelong favourites, elephants and whales.
During my stay, I also had the chance to visit Melote House, the other half of Lepogo Lodges, which had only just opened its doors to guests. This exclusive-use villa is the only other place to stay within Lapalala and is designed for families or groups looking for a private safari experience.
The house is beautifully designed and sleeps up to 16 guests. It comes with its own team, vehicle and chef, making it ideal for those wanting total comfort and exclusivity. I was struck by how thoughtfully it had been decorated. It was super contemporary and stylish, but still in harmony with its setting, like with Noka Camp. It’s a spectacular option for those wanting total privacy while still having access to the reserve’s incredible wildlife and landscapes.
My short stay at Lepogo Lodges was amazing, and I will make sure I go back for longer one day. The combination of luxury, conservation, exclusivity and genuine hospitality makes this one of the most memorable safari experiences I’ve had.
If you’re looking for a safari that feels both deeply connected to nature and wonderfully indulgent, I can’t recommend Lepogo Lodges highly enough. Whether it’s waking up to the sound of the bush from your cliffside suite, watching wildlife in complete solitude, or learning about cutting-edge conservation projects, Lepogo offers an unforgettable slice of South Africa.
