A journey down the Peruvian Amazon aboard the Delfin III
I was recently lucky enough to travel to Iquitos, in Peruvian Amazonia, for a 4-night exploration of the Amazon aboard the luxury cruise ship, the Delfin III.
I’d travelled to Iquitos once before, 25 years ago but back then my journey was markedly different as a backpacker, taking 3 ships from Iquitos to eventually reach the Brazilian port of Belem, where the Amazon meets the Atlantic. Back then food was almost always fish and rice, my bed was a hammock, and on one of the legs I laid in my hammock and was able to touch 9 other people without moving! It goes without saying, the experience aboard the Delfin III was far, far different.
The Delfin III is owned by Delfin Amazon Cruises, a Peruvian owned and operated company which focuses on luxury and sustainability. The company owns three vessels; Delfin I, II and III all of which have a similar style but which vary in size, with Delfin I having only 4 cabins. Delfin III is the largest vessel yet with only 22 cabins and certainly doesn’t feel like too many on board.
The Peruvian Amazon essentially has two main entry points, either in Puerto Maldonaldo in the south Amazon basin, or Iquitos in the north. Puerto Maldonaldo is home to a number of luxury lodges whereas Iquitos is where the Amazon river begins so you can actually experience the Amazon river ‘properly’. That’s not to downplay the experience at Puerto Maldonaldo which is also fabulous.
Iquitos is a 90-minute flight from the Peruvian capital Lima and on arrival, just by the luggage carousel, you’ll find a desk for Delfin. Here you are greeted by a representative or two from the boat who will label your luggage with your cabin number. Once your fellow passengers have done the same, you all then head outside to board a bus to the port of Nauta, this is located a 90-minute drive away. During the journey you’re provided with a box lunch, with vegan and vegetarian options available.
On arrival to Nauta, Delfin have a welcome reception house where you can freshen up and hand over your passport details. You’re then taken to a skiff (a small speedboat) and transferred to the Delfin III. We arrived after the sun had gone down and the boat looked truly magnificent with it’s lights reflecting off the dark waters of the Amazon river.
Once aboard we received a welcome briefing and met fellow passengers before being shown to our cabins where our luggage was waiting. I was allocated an upper suite cabin which was fabulous and more spacious than I was expecting with a huge bed and a surprisingly large bathroom. All the bathrooms come with a shower, while the Owner’s suite also has a bath tub.
The Delfin III offers 22 suites with the highest levels of comfort for up to 44 passengers. On the first deck, there are 9 Suites complete with floor-to-ceiling panoramic windows as well as 2 spacious Corner Suites facing the front of the ship. The second deck is comprised of 10 Upper Suites and the largest of all, the Owner’s Suite.
Dinner was served after we’d settled in and the food that evening, and for every meal, was simply wonderful. Incredibly fresh and exotic ingredients are combined with refined cooking techniques and creativity in dishes made to enchant the senses. Having the Relais & Châteaux’s seal of approval to the culinary experience speaks volumes for the food on offer.
Elsewhere on the boat, the top deck features beautiful indoor and outdoor lounge areas, a sundeck with plunge pool, a spa and gym, and of course the bar. The lounge / bar area is the only place where wi-fi is available but you’re encouraged to disconnect and enjoy the scenery.
Every day aboard the Delfin III was full of activities with plenty of time for relaxation too.
A typical day starts with coffee in the lounge at 6:30am followed by a skiff ride for early morning exploration and then return for breakfast but every day is different so on another morning we had breakfast at 6:30am and then went out for the morning. It differs, from day to day.
Days are spent taking skiff rides out into the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve (the size of New Jersey) enjoying a range of activities from bird-watching to piranha fishing, jungle walks, visiting local communities, and enjoying watching the iconic Amazonian pink dolphins.
On the second day we headed into the Amazon Natural Park, where lush trails led us deep into the ancient wisdom of the jungle. As we walked, we discovered the secrets of medicinal plants that have sustained local communities for generations.
In the afternoon, the Yanayacu Pucate River called us to adventure. We glided silently by kayak over its mirrored waters, surrounded by the flooded forest and the vibrant calls of the Amazon’s wildlife. Seeing the rainforest from this perspective was incredible as we spotted sloths and birdlife galore.
On our third morning we headed into the rainforest at Fundo Casual for a guided trail walk. This area, rich with towering ceiba trees, vibrant flora, and fascinating wildlife, offered a glimpse into the heart of the Amazon. As we walked beneath the forest canopy, our naturalist guide revealed the ecological wonders and hidden stories that make the jungle so extraordinary as we encountered tarantulas, frogs and anacondas.
In the afternoon, the calm waters of Nauta Caño welcomed us and we tried our hand at the traditional art of piranha fishing, surrounded by the symphony of the flooded forest. After dinner, we returned to Nauta Caño for a night safari, where the jungle transformed under the starlit sky. Caimans, owls, and other nocturnal creatures emerged, offering us a thrilling glimpse of the Amazon after dark.
Before breakfast on our fourth morning we witnessed one of the Amazon’s most breathtaking sights: the Confluence of the Rivers, where the Ucayali and Marañón join to form the mighty Amazon River. In South America, the Amazon River ‘proper’ is only found in Peru and Brazil whereas Colombia, Ecuador, Venezuela and Bolivia are home to tributaries of the river.
Later in the morning, we visited the small community of San José de Paranapura. There, we learned about daily life along the river—from local traditions and crafts to the ways families live in harmony with their environment. It also gave guests on board the chance to buy locally produced crafts.
In the afternoon, we set out on a skiff exploration of the Yarapa River. Its calm, winding waters revealed a wealth of wildlife, from playful monkeys to vibrant birds. With each turn, we discovered another glimpse of the incredible biodiversity that makes the Amazon so extraordinary.
On our final day we had to make sure our bags were packed and ready to go early and it was with warm hearts, the staff bid us farewell as our 4-night journey came to an end.
As we arrived back to the port in Nauta, we took skiffs back to dry land and boarded bus back to Iquitos and to the airport for our flight back to Lima.
The experience overall aboard the Delfin III was terrific and I highly recommend the cruise and the Delfin brand as a whole, a wonderful small family luxury business, rather like Humboldt Travel.
Talk to us about planning your own Amazon cruise.
